Caffe Avec

Skyr, the sweet life in Reykjavik

A short week in Reykjavik sent me out to several handfuls of restaurants and coffee shops. You find them at every corner. Some of the worldwide chains ok, but they are easy to pass by. When I travel I am looking for the local feel, and it could easily be found. I feasted in fish and seafood, and every day I allowed myself at least one dessert or cake......always containing skyr, the delicious yoghurtlike concoction made from pasteurised skimmed milk. Low on fat, rich on taste.

Reykjavik is not like any other city. Since the time of the first Norwegian settlers, which arrived from 870 till 939, probably blown off course en rout to the Faraoes, it has lived its own life, developed a worn charm. Walking around, a little off from where most tourists go, my camera was busy, my memoery chest filling up fast.

.....and always a skyr refreshment was waiting.....

 
Skyr, seafood and windows became part of my Reykjavik days.......

........I never tired of it. If I had though, I would have visited Bæjarins Besti and asked for a hotdog. Here is what Lonely Planet writes about it:

...the pýlsur (hot dog) is the fuel of modern Iceland. Hot dogs are for sale in every petrol station and fast food kiosk......Locals in Reykjavik reckon the world's greatest hotdogs come from Bæjarins Bestu, a busy hotdog stand opposite the Kolaportid fleamarket. Rumour insists that they's so delicious because they're cooked in beer......

I never tried them, but had another skyr cake instead :-)

 

Café Loki in Reykjavik, and the sculptor Einar Jónsson

It was an early morning in January. I was in Reykjavik, Iceland, and I was out to explore the city. Starting with Hallgrimskirkja, I felt a little disappointed when the church was closed for renovation, but the weak morning light still gave me quite a few good photos of the church.

Then it started to rain, icy cold winter rain, and I looked around for some shelter. There right across the corner, was an inviting building, Cafe Loki.

Well inside I ordered coffee. It was not long since breakfast and I hadn't planned to have anything to eat, but looking though the menu I saw they had skyr cake, and had to give it a try.

From Lonely Planet: Don't miss out on skyr, a delicious yoghurtlike concoction made from pasteurised skimmed milk. Despite its rich and decadent flavour, it is actually low in fat and is often mixed with sugar, fruitflavours such as blueberries, and cream to give it a wonderful flavour and texture.

I continued reading my Lonely Planet, and discovered that on the next corner was the Einar Jónsson Museum. Einar Jónsson (1874 - 1954) is Iceland's most famous sculptor. Looking out the window again I found that the rain had stopped, and a museum could be a good place to continue my day. 

 
Being January, the museum was closed, but the sculpture filled garden was open. I walked around, charmed by the many bronze sculptures. Inspired by nature, inspired by feelings....here were sculptures of hope, of sorrow, of creation. The naked winter garden, the view of the tower of Hallgrimskirkjan, the lonelyness in the garden - it all made it a very special hour.

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For more posts from Iceland, visit Britt-Arnhild's House in the Woods (the Iceland pages)