text and images britt-arnhild
On top of my list of what to do on Madeira is a hike along the Levadas. A levada is an irrigation canal constructed to challen water from the mountains to the lower-lying farmlands. I read in my guidebook that the making of the levadas were often done by slaves imported from Portugal's African colonies. A dramatical, sad story.
The levadas, where water flows carefully regulated by a system of sluices are operated by the levadeiros, men who have the job my make sure that farmers get the right amount of water to their land, and who keep the levadas clean and flowing.
The levadas often goes through area where people are living, some times almost through people's gardens. And people keep dogs! I am scared of dogs. Scared to death of barking dogs. And of course dogs bark when a middle aged Nordic couple suddenly comes hiking through their territory.
Terje and I had spent the morning in the small village of Camacha, famous for its wicker industry (which is a tale for another day), we had had our morning coffee in a smal local bar and were now ready to start our hike. To reach Levada dos Tornos we had to walk though a hill where villas were dotted, and of course the villas had dogs.
How could I know that in this charming blue house there live five tiny little devils. Barking like hell. Terje tries to tell me that they are safe behind a fence, and anyway they have it all in their barking, they will do me no harm. I fail to believe him. My heart races and I use all my energy to walk slowly, not start running like a world champion.
I have been reading a biography of Freya Stark these days. Or actually rereading for the xth time Passionat Nomad. I love to read about Freya's travels, I dream about being brave and adventurous like her.
Then one single dog, or five small barking ones, almost prevent me from doing a safe levada walk.
I had to speak hard to myself. Listen BrittArnhild, you can go on being scared as a tiny little mouse, but it will take you nowhere. You do have another option you know. Still like a tiny little mouse you can rise, stand up against the enemy. Hello world, here I come!
I did!
It worked!
Giving oneself a lesson is often the best thing to do :-)
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By the way Wendy, I have absolutely no new outfits for this trip. I wear my clothes to pieces, and when we pack to go home in a few days, I will leav behind a pair of worn out shoes and a black tights.
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