Text and photos Britt Arnhild Wigum Lindland
The souq in Aleppo, from Lonely Planet:
Not as extensive as Cairo's Khan al Khalili or as grand as Istanbul's Grand Bazaar, Aleppo's souq is nonetheless one of the most atmospheric in the Middle East. Its appeal derives largely from the fact that it's still the main centre of local comerce. If an Aleppan housewife needs some braid for her curtains, a taxi driver needs a new seat cover, or the school kids need backpacks, it's to the souq that they all come. Little seems to have changed here in hundred of years, and while recent years have seen an increase in tourism, the local trade has yet to be replaced by sightseers.
Part of the souq date from the 13th cantury, but the bulk of what stands today belongs to the Ottoman era (largely 16th to 19th century). A walk through the souq could take all day, particularly if you accept invitations from the stall owners to stop for tea.
A walk in the souq could take all day..........and all we had was less than an hour. And all the time we had to walk together with the guide, together with the group. The guide knew the souq well though, and knew where to take us, where to make stops. Like near this stall selling herbs.
Oh my, how I longed to go wild there and then. Dive into the spices, perfume myself in the fragrances, dream myself into the kitchens of Aleppo where the housewives use these spices every day, and have done for centuries. It felt a little cowardish to stay so close to the guide and the rest of the group all the time. I should have followed my dreams and gone wild. Really I should!
Imagine the stories I could have told then.........
I did buy some small plastic bags of spices. Two types of pepper, "they go perfect together" the friend of the young seller told me. And he is right. I use them together now and get a taste of the Syrian kitchen in my Nordic Bluie Café dishes. Coriander........and regret all the spices I did not buy.....safron, cumin, allspice.........
Next time. There is always a next time, isn't there.........In real or in my dreams!
I made a vegetable soup the other day. Marta has been a vegetarian for three months now, I love the challenge of deciding what to make for dinner.
A carrot, some left over cauliflower, garlic, spring onion, half an onion, cellery, a piece of a squash. Boil for half an hour, add Syrian pepper mixture, coriander from the souq in Aleppo, salt from the saltmines outside Krakow in Poland, memories from west of the sun, east of the moon.
Terje, arriving home from a long day at work, warm from cycling up the long hills: "Mmmmmm, what a lovely smell in the house. What is there for dinner?"
Later, Marta, at the table: "Mamma, this soup tastes delicious."
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More from Lonely Planet:
One of the best things about Aleppo's fantastic souq is the olive soap. It's unique, handmade, decorated and 100% natural, being made of 90% olives and 10% bay laurel. And if it's good enough for the great queens of the Middle East (Cleopatra, Nefertiti, Sheba and Zenobia) it's good enough to pack away as a souvernir.
But not all soaps are created equal. The oldest highest.quality (and most expensive) soap is aged for eight years. The next quality down is aged for only three years and is best kept for the hair and body, while the cheapest soaps are only three months old and used just for your hands.....
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Lucky me, I have two Syrian masterly decorated pure olive soaps in my bathroom, patiently waiting in a glass bowl. I have no idea if they are three months, 5 years or 8 years, but it doesn't matter much. I am not going to use them yet, will keep them in the bowl for years, and put my nose down to them from time to time to smell them.....and to be taken right back to the souq.
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